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My friends i have stayed away for some time now..mostly due to me starting my own design firm, and me having had a few run in with my towns law and police. That being said , now im back fully running to help all of us have fun!!

now for the next sticker  battle i am puting up a small hand made batch of 8 mops for the winner !! free shipping in USA or canada, other we will talk !!

as a motivation to you all i bring you this .. stay long enough in this game and you will get caught, even serve jail time.. but that dosen't mean we stop .. no.. it means we innovate ! while on probation i could not buy spray paint, or markers, or streakers...or stickers...but they never said shit about paper !!!! we will always find ways !

MISGUIDED MIGRATION : life-size origami paper installation ..:…

have fun !

So spraypaint. What can we say about spraypaint that people don't already know... It comes in a can under pressure with solvent and is propelled out though a nozzle at the top onto surfaces. But I can probably guess you guys know that already without being too wrong. Below is a cut away diagram of a spraypaint can; The important parts for the artist to know about are the air(/propellant), the caps/s and the ball.

The ball is the easiest to talk about is the ball, it's there for mixing the paint. Simple as that really, but importantly you have to shake the can. If it's the first use of the can, or first in a ling time, then you have to shake that can like Miley Cyrus twerks. The more you shake it the less likely you are to block your valve/cap. I've found that some brands take a hell of a load more shaking than others, particularly anything that has 'great coverage/opacity' on the can, and for some reason light colours need more agitation than dark.

Propellant varies from can to can but is usually butane or a variant there of. Highly flammable and certainly not healthy for you to breath. Hence all of those warnings on the cans to only use them in well ventilated open areas; Which I understand is not always possible, and that is where respirator masks come in (and there is another article in of itself, check out the internet/local hardware store tonnes of different models out there ;))

Now caps; Again this could, and may be, another article but I hope to cover the basics here. There are dozens of different varieties of cap for spraypaint cans, some specific to certain brands only some universal. The main division is the type of valve, male or female. The caps on the front row in the image below are male caps to go with a female valve. The nomenclature is fairly obvious the male part fits inside the female part. So if your cans valve sticks out you need a female cap (this tends to be the case with most non-arts spraypaint cans) and if the valve is inset then you need a male cap. The other distinguishing aspect from cap to cap is the size/shape of the nozzle, needless to saw the smaller the nozzle the smaller the area covered and vice versa. But also the smaller the nozzle the faster the paint covers an area. Also different effects can be achieved with various shapes on the nozzles.


Now this is many people will argue and moan and fight; The brand of the spraypaint does not matter. Repeat after me; The brand of the spraypaint does not matter. It is the skill of the artist using the paint that matters. Having said that you get what you pay for, pound/dollar store paint is a good stop gap/practice paint and sometimes cheap paints are a bargain. A lot of the time however they are too high in solvent (so they take forever to dry, leave drips), not very opaque and come with rubbish caps (which are usually female ones and thus hard to replace).
There are many spraypaint brands and all of them have different  pros and cons. Some are limited to only half a dozen colours, some hundreds. It would be pedantic and pointless to list all of them here, and I can also admit I've not tried all of them myself... yet. So I will just list a few here with a few details about each.

Montana (Spanish): This is the original company to hold the Montana name and they produce a variety of paints. Their MTN 94 range has over 100 colours/shades, a matte finish, extremely quick drying time and low pressure for fine detailed work. It can however take a great deal of shaking to get the colour mixed. They also do a slightly smaller range of colours in a gloss finish called Hardcore 2, which has excellent coverage but does take a lot longer to dry and is prone to drips/clogging of caps/valves. They do other ranges and speciality paints for a full list visit their website here MTNcolours.

Montana (German): This is the second company to hold the name Montana and they also produce a variety of paints (the story of why there are two companies with the same name is a protracted one and best told another time and place). Their three main ranges are classified as White, Black and Gold. White is their bargain range with only a few dozen colours and a gloss finish. Black and Gold however are the premium cans in there range with a matte finish and a much wider range of colours. For a full list of colours/makes visit their website here Montana cans.

Ironlak: This an Australian company which produces a nice range of colours all in a gloss finish with an extremely high coverage. It can be a hard paint to master in that it's thickness is inherently prone to clogging like hell and it does take a while to dry. It does however... have one of the nicest smells in the world. Not necessarily the deciding factor for choosing a paint I know, but sometimes these little things can be what sways us :) For more details on this brand and their range visit their website here Ironlak

Molotow: This is the company that gave us the Belton spraypaint range. With it's 251+ colour range (including transparent and neon ones), matte finish and amazing coverage it is by far the best paint available on the market. It is however one of the most lethal in that they contain ******* which does not get filtered out by respirators. But for outside use, preferably with a prevailing wind, they can be used to immense effect. For more details on this brand and their full range visit their website here Molotow.

Again this is only a short list of the brands available out there, the only way to be sure which suits you is to get out there and try a few for yourself. Remember it's not the paint but how you use it that matters.

Can control.

Now this one is a bit more difficult to write about as really it can only be learnt by watching/doing. So to that end I have scoured YouTube for some suitable videos and if you are serious about using spraypaint I suggest you do a little searching of your own. Watch some videos of people painting, but most of all try it out yourselves as no amount of watching/listening/reading can teach you the reflexes you need to perfect your techniques. They can however stop you from making the most basic mistakes.

Spray caps       Tips and techniques         Guide to can control           How to tag             Further can tips

One final thing that no one seems to mention in any of the videos is this; When you have finished spraying turn the can upside down and spray until only propellant exits the cap. This helps stop paint drying inside the cap and valve and will save you a fortune in caps in the long term ;)

Hopefully this has been instructive for those beginners out there.
Any questions just drop me a note.

How many active members have we got?
Is this group a lumbering dinosaur that doesn't know it's dead or can it be saved.
Leave a response below...

Street Art : - Stencil tools.

Now primarily stencil artists tools break down into three categories;

Stencil material.

The sky really is the limit here and pretty much ever stencil artist swears by a different medium, I've seen stencils made from cereal boxes to metal to material to plastic milk bottles and everything in between. Ultimately it depends on what you want from your stencil; Such things as repetition of use, detail, ease of travel, whether you are stenciling on a horizontal surface or vertical even whether you'd doing it upside down can all be affected by what you cut the stencil from.
The best, and only, way to find what works best for you is to experiment, something that after years of stenciling I still do. So sorry I can't just tell you the best material to use and you pop off and make amazing stencils straight away. I can however give you a few tips on what to consider and what to look for.
Some things to consider are the thickness of the material, the rigidity, size and how porous the material is. Now obviously the size of the material your using dictates the size of the stencil, however it is possible to increase the size. For example if you require a meter square stencil you can make it up fastening 4 sheets a half meter square together, in this case masking tape is your best friend (duct tape for heavier duty materials).
The thickness and rigidity of the material are both fairly linked and dictate how the stencil is cut and how it is used. For example a stencil made from paper can be cut with even the bluntest of blades but is very flexible and can only really be used horizontally without support/glue. However a stencil made from sheet metal is going to have to cut with specialist tool but can be used practically anywhere even upside down. Many stencil artists however find it a bit cumbersome to hire/buy metal cutting gear and seek a happy compromise somewhere in the middle. Many go for heavy weight papers or cards something over 200gms2 , this then provides something that is thin enough to be cut with a sharp craft knife yet rigid enough to hold up against use.
Another group of materials in common use are plastics and here is where the porous nature of the material comes in. The most common type of plastic used for stencils being mylar sheets or OHP sheets taped together. The use of plastics is generally for when a stencil is to be used repetitively as the paint not only does not sink into the stencil, but with careful application of thinners it can also be cleaned to prevent clogs and blockages.

Stencil cutting tool.

This depends entirely on what material you are cutting through. For now I'm going to assume you are cutting by hand through something that doesn't require superhuman strength or a boron lazer. So knives, there's lots of different ones out there and they all have their own merits. So lets talk knives (a phrase that often has people around me worried). 
The most readily available type of knife would be those used for DIY purposes such as box cutters/Stanley knives. These are often bulky about the size of an average screwdriver with a retractable blade, sometimes the blade is scored with 'snap points' to provide a new fresh edge for cutting others replacement blades. Now with a big blade that you get with these you aren't going to be able to get extreme fine detail, however they are fantastic for use with thick materials and large scale stencils. They also have the advantage of being easy to acquire and usually fairly cheap.
For detailed pieces what you should be looking for is a 'craft knife'. Now here is where wishes are horses, the market out there is flooded with different types and styles of craft knives. To list them all here would be pointless, tedious and ultimately make for a boring as hell read. So instead some pointers; As much as it pains me to say this... You get what you pay for, dollar/pound store craft knives are a false economy. Yeah they don't cost much but they blunt awfully quickly and in some case the handle/blade can snap under pressure leaving you with at best an unusable knife, at worst a broken blade buried in part of you (from experience I can tell you a knife blade tip in the eye really HURTS).
Craft knives are made up of two parts a replaceable blade and the handle it sits in. Of course the blade is important, you want something that's going to be sharp for as long as possible (stainless steel is good, titanium is better but also really expensive). Then again if you're going for detail you are also going to be cutting for long periods of time and will want something that is a good shape/has a comfortable grip. Again this isn't something that an article like this can decide for you. I've tried over the years dozens of different handle/blade combinations, and I've finally settled down on one type of knife for general use. I do however still have a variety of knives for different uses and emergencies, including hand made ones (similar to prison shivs, not very safe do not try at home).


Now for most street art this would be spraypaint and that's what I'll be mostly talking about here, however stencils can be painted with all sorts of other paints using sponges/stipple brushes/rollers etc. 
Now with spraypaint there are many brands/types out there and it can be a bit confusing to the novice/amateur, they mainly break down to matte/gloss with high/low pressure.
The first are fairly self explanatory in that matte cans will leave a matte finish and gloss ones a gloss finish. I've found that for multi-layered stencils matte paint works best as it dries at a faster rate with a nice finish.
The pressure difference is basically how fast the paint comes out, with high pressure cans pushing more paint out in a faster time than low pressure. For fine detailed stencils I'd suggest using a low pressure can with soft broad strokes to ensure coverage and cut down on drips/runs. High pressure cans can be useful however for large scale stencils as a large area can be filled very quickly, especially if a wide nozeled, fat, cap applied to the can.

Other Tools.

There are a few subsidiary tools that whilst not necessary do come in awfully handy.
Tape: Many varieties out there the most common would be masking tape. This can be used for many things such as attaching sheets of paper/card/etc. together to make the stencil. Blocking out areas of and around the stencil to prevent over/underspray making the stencil cleaner and crisper. Finally of course holding the stencil in place, freeing up the hands for more tasks and avoiding paint getting on them.
Cutting mat/boards: Different types here include rubbber/pvc/self healing plastics and toughened glass. Listed here in the order of how good they are in my opinion. Seriously those toughened glass cutting mats are fantastic, they last for ages (until you drop it and break it really) and have a nice smooth surface for cutting on. Pricier but well worth the investment for those plan on doing some long term cutting.

Now go out there and have safe fun with all those knives.
As inspiration here's some of the wonderful things that can be done with stencils.

untouched used wasted by Burgi687 Tools of the trade by snikstencilstuff Motivational Quote - Spray Paint Stencil Canvas by RAMART79 halftone 4 by kingstom Typography Butterfly by GateGraffiti Nothing Compares To You by bobbyzeik RDR Undead Nightmare stencil by fear-0f-james Home by squirrel1 Spider by sykonurse

This will be my last DD roundup as my term as the community volunteer for the street art gallery here on dA is now ended.
I have had a fantastic time meeting all of you guys out there and been very privileged to be sent some truly amazing pieces of art as DD suggestions.

So sit back and let your eyes take in this final feast of goodies from my term.

:bigthumb374781930: Portland Road Squirrel. Seven Sisters. London by Boe-art A drop of pink in Isar's waters by nevercrew SpideRabbiTarantula by DrChainsawHandz FRESH AESY by AESYONE 603094 4666085383581 1380677711 N by umaxgraff Mr Mong and Derm from the Bad Taste Crew by bigillustrations Graffiti Decoration Space floor marbelized by Graffiti-decoration Walker - Sticker Art on vinyl by Gaz-de-la-Raz Robot Rock by paulo2070 Dero by deroone gren by Peculiar-Productions AWYK by okus581 heARTwork sticker pack series 2 by azridjokoloro Eyes of Africa II by jois85 'This is letting go' - Full shot by snikstencilstuff Mural by TurkesART Travelling in a fairy tale. by Nikolaj-Arndt

For any of you who are interested in being a community volunteer the first place to check out would be this FAQ #18: Who selects Daily Deviations and how are they chosen?

Big love to all the little creative vandals out there :heart:

Kiwi :peace:

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